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For fall Jason Wu leaned into his menswear training for a strong collection that combined hard and soft and had deconstructivist tendencies. For the pre-fall collection here, he’s made a case for an AM to PM Wu wardrobe. “I know a lot of people see me as more evening, but honestly, I sell the most day clothes,” the designer said on a walk-through.

A clean-lined trench with a flower motif was so carefully placed that the pocket flap perfectly aligned with the placed print. Then there was the camisole top with an asymmetrical hem, a bit of drape, lace, and streamers paired with a sleek pair of pants that Wu described as a bit of “Calvin [Klein] mixed with an almost Victorian feeling.”

This collection fits into the designer’s continuing exploration of American sportswear, with a focus on the ’90s. He’s sensing that the relative ease and modernity of that era vibes well with a time of belt-tightening and fashion stunt overload. At the same time, Wu is smart to tap into the post-war nostalgia that is also a force in fashion today. He described an ankle-bearing, off-the-shoulder LBD as delivering an “Audrey moment.” It’d be a nice option in which to, ahem, go lightly into a memorable evening.